Blog Archives 070728 to 070603

Old pointless chatter instead of new pointless chatter.

 

070728 Kraków, Poland
Today (Saturday) is much better than Thursday. Yesterday (Friday), was OK, but it was complicated by the fact that W. noticed I was upset about something and would not let it drop unitl I admitted what was wrong; that I'd felt like a 5th wheel ever since P. had proposed and wedding preparations had consumed them and their families. It doesn't matter if a 5th wheel is wanted and valued, it is still a totally superfluous element; unnecessary and occasionally in the way. She hadn't given any thought to that and realizing it lefter her upset and semi-depressed for much of the rest of the day.

Today, I found, oddly enough, a cool shopping mall built into an old city block off the main square. The old building facings, balconies, stairs, and cellars had been left as-is or repaired, but the once-street, courtyard, and building insides were filled with modern steel and glass escalators and lighting. Also, rather than my ususal crust of bread in an open square, I treated myslef to a cafe lunch: piwo i bigos i kawa latte z ladami.

Random notes: Wawel castle was impressive, with excellent displays, but the most impressive thing was the photo display of the castle renovation. The displayed photos of decayed and eroded edifaces, poorly bricked holes, crumbling steps, and broken flagstones made clear two things; 1) the huge amount of work and money that went into reconditioning the castle and 2) that even thick stone buildings are transitory. Also it made clear that a big building requires a staff. Big building = big maintenance requirements.

Some of the buidings here (Kraków, old city) have active, maintained lower floors (shops) and decaying upper floors. People own parts of buildings so maintenance can be quite varied within a single building.

Most large modern structures require the pooled resources of many individuals (i.e. companies, governments) for construction and ownership. E.g. Trump doesn't own Trump Towers; his company owns it. Even in olden times, small cotteges may have been an individual effort, but barn/large house raisings were a community affair.

070726 Kraków, Poland
Thursday (070726) was a bad day. The morning started well enough; W. took me shopping. I hate shopping, but it is less painful with someone else, and I have no taste in clothes so the advice of a woman is much appreciated. The shopping trip was slightly soured by my credit cards being rejected after one use each. (The banks' anti-fraud measures didn't like big purchases in Poland and automatically froze the accounts. It was late night in Poland before humans came on duty in the US and saw the account note stating that I'd called before leaving the US and requested that my cards not be frozen for purchases made in Poland. Sigh.)

After shopping, I was dropped off in the old city to wander around (yet again). I'd been invited to a family event; a visiting uncle, wedding plan discussions (for W. and P.), etc., but their kindness only made my isolation more apparent. If I'd attended, they'd have done their best to keep conversations in English, resulting in slow, stilted, halting, and extremely limited conversations, with me as the cause. With me not present, the conversations could flow in rapid relaxed Polish. My choice was clear; absent myself and let the family matters proceed freely.

I know it was perception, not reality, but for the rest of the day, events seemed to conspire to frustrate or mock me. After having spent the morning with a lovely woman, I excluded myself and left her with her happy family planning her wedding while I wandered alone. I'd seen the old city several times over, so I tried one museum (closed) then another (closed) then a bookstore (English section between the romance novels and sex instruction books for the newly married), then tried a classical music recital (cancelled). Everywhere I walked, there were happy couples strolling hand in hand. Finally, I decided on a walk around the greenway around Kraków (where the moat once was). Everywhere there were young couples kissing in the shadows or strolling together with eyes for no one else. It seemed that only the few homeless alcoholics were alone. And me. Ditching the greenway, I headed for the river, so I could follow that towards the boring (and not romantic) industrial part of the city. The romantic river-side walk at sunset was, as you might expect, full of reminders that I was alone.

Walking alone, pissed off at life, at Davis for being too small and having almost no dating oportunities for me, at San Francisco for being too far away so that the women feel odd or pressured if they know I drove 90 minutes just to meet the for coffee, at Kraków for having plenty of interesting, educated single women, but no Biotech, at myself for all the missed opportunities and bungled chances over the years, at P. for proposing to W. right at the start of my visit, thereby destroying the touring plans and making the rest of the visit filled with reminders of what I don't have (a significant other with whom to build a future), and at myself (again) for having such a selfish response to W.'s happiness.

The day was capped when I had to walk back to the old city to catch a taxi back to W.'s place... The cab drivers refused me, preferring the short, profitable drives taking drunks a few blocks around the old city intead of taking me for the longer, less profitable drive out to the suburbs. After trying several taxis, I had to call W., who sent a taxi to pick me up. When I got back to W.'s place, at least they attributed my slight edge to being mad at the asshole cab drivers, not to the fact that I'd been pissed off in general for about the last 11 hours solid.

P.S. Yeah, the cabbies were dicks, but I'd experienced the same in China; if you don't speak the language, plenty of cabbies will tell you to shove off while they wait for the easy fares... Unless you can speak enough to tell them off and explain you're writing down their operator's license number... Then they suddenly feel like driving you wherever you want.

070725 Kraków, Poland
I know many many people spend their whole life in one city, surrounded by a network of family and long-time friends... But that seems positively alien to me. I almost can't imagine what it would be like to drive around a single city that contained all of my milestones; kindergarden, elementary school, the local zoo, my paper route, high school, college, etc. Most of the places I have lived lately are clean slates; the only impressions and memories they contain are recently formed. The same with the people with whom I regularly interact; I don't have 10 years of impressions building up who they were and who they are within my mind - they are only what I've been able to observe recently.

One day, I suppose I will have that - the network of impressions that can only exist when staying in the same place or surrounded by the same people for a long time. For now, however, I still have vague thoughts of moving from Davis to Denmark in the not-too-distant future (2-3 years from now). This plan means I'm not too serious about shopping for a house (instead of renting) and prompts me toward the culling of material possessions (a good thing; fighting my pack-rat nature at least enough to cull the worn-out, crappy, or unneeded stuff).

A trip out to W.'s family's private health clinic in the countryside was very nice. The cryo chamber for many people was a much nicer experience than the individual chamber. The cold was pleasant if you could control and stop your shivering, which I did. It reminded me of a winter night in Chicago when I lay on my back in the snow (in the quad) and watche the stars wheel overhead; very pleasant once the shivering stops. The pool and the hot-tub afterwards were pure bliss.

070724 Kraków, Poland
Auschwitz. The exhibit that impacted me the most was the huge pile of baby clothes. For the most part, my dominant feeling was profound anger... Anger that people still have not learned. We still have mass torture and murder, mass prison camps, and justifications of these outrages from countries that should know better. One of the biggest lessons from Auschwitz is not "Nazis are evil"; it is "They thought they were justified.". We must examine very carefully any action that requires justification. We must examine with great suspicion any action that is justified by "extrordinary circumstances" or by claims that "they are not like us". And we must eschew dehumanization, of the "dirty Jew", the "thieving Gypsy", the "sneaky Jap", the "evil terrorist", or the "Islamofacist"; these are all terms to make justification easier.

The visitor badge stickers we were given at the camp entrance were all marked with a red triangle, as was used by the Nazis to mark political prisoners and most of the Polish prisoners. The other triangles used were green (criminals), pink (homosexuals), and black (Gypsy). Captured soviet army men were tatooed with "SU". Most Jews sent to the camp were never processed, photographed, or numbered; the vast majority were delivered straight to the gas chambers without even being counted.

070722 Kraków, Poland
Today was my most "tourist" day in Kraków; the museums were all closed in the afternoon, so I attended a Polish Folk Dancing performance by the Kraku Ensemble, a student group of two dancers and three musicians. They showed several short folk dances with many changes of clothing, so the appropriate regional costume was worn for each regional dance. Eh, it was a better bet than the Chopin recitals.

070721 Kraków, Poland
I'm seated in an open square directly between two churches. A plaque in the square notes that this used to be the location of a third church until 1838.

The Muzeum Czartoryskich had some cool things, like medieval Turkish war gear taken from a battlefield (e.g. rug tents, chain and plate armor decorated with animal skin wraps and back-mounted "wings"). They also had a fantastic copy of the Egyptian 'Book of the Dead' from 'God's Father Pasherenmin' of the early Ptolemaic Period, late 4th Century B.C. By this time, the hieroglyphics were a cool-looking, dense short-hand script. I'd like to find an electronic copy of this, just because the script looked so neat. I was told by one of the museum curators that the armor's back-mounted "wings" (really just frames for holding a number of large feathers out straight from the back) were a device used by the medieval cavalry; when charging, they created a loud roaring noise that your own horse was trained to ignore, but would unsettle enemy horses.

The city blocks surrounding the old market square are filled with bars, clubs, restaurants, and shops. Most of the "alleyway" entrances into the center of the blocks dead-end in a central courtyard, usually containing a bar/cafe/restaurant. In a few cases, however, it is possible to "thread" the block by taking small side-passages out of the courtyard. Once, I popped out through the back of an ice-cream shop and once it took following stairs up, over, and down to come out though the landing of an apartment building.

Today was a good day for classical music. First, I attended a performance of Vivaldi's Four Seasons in one church, then a selection of works from J.S. Bach, A. Corelli, W.A. Mozart, E. Morricone, and J. Williams in another church. The churches have great acoustics for small chamber orchestras. The group that did the performance of selections (L'arte De Areo Orchestra) also did a shockingly good orchestral version of "Yesterday" (by the Beatles) as their final piece. The encore was "Eine Kleine Nachtmuzic".

Oh, I should note that when I said that "the churches have great acoustics", they are great for pieces that benefit from great sound reflection and sustained echo reverberation. This adds to and enriches many pieces, but badly muddies more rapid pieces and melodies. Base drums become roiling and impressive, but intricate violin work becomes a muddy mess.

Wandering around the old market square at night, I saw four accordion players together doing a mixture of Bach organ recitals and Phillip Glass pieces while in another corner of the square a group of young Polish men wowed a crowd with a mixture of steppin' and breakdancing, to the accompaniment of a drum set.

070720 Kraków, Poland
Instead of creating big, modern, straight-line freeways, Poland has attempted to modernize old roads, so there is a windy, narrow spider-web of roads. Single minor accidents result in major delays and the need for long, indirect detours. Poland currently has no eminent domain laws that would let the government fix this situation.

I went to see a one-woman play (in English), in a small cellar space under the old town hall tower. It was a very cool space to use for a theater. Kraków has all these bars/restaurants/etc. tucked in cave-like, labyrinthine old cellars and basements.

070719 Bieszczady, Poland
Today, I convinced P. and W. to go for another hike, choosing a gentle hike up a long ridge line to the peak of Mała Rawka. The day was hazy with humidity and the temperatures hit 36 C, but it was beautiful and the ridgeline was covered in blueberry and raspberry bushes. Since this is a national park, the berries were not harvested and we were able to snack our way along the ridge. Nice.

Now for some thumbnail observations that I've not fleshed out much:
Throughout the Bieszczady, the houses all have sharply slanted roofs, huge wood stockpiles, and raised first floors (about 8 ft off the ground)... This all adds up to indicate harsh, deep winters.
Many of the houses we have passed in the countryside have small shrine niches tucked high in the front wall of the houses.
Also, whether looking at city buildings, suburban houses, or houses out in the countryside, balconies seem to be very common.
Polish museums: Very often require a guide. The guide goes one speed no matter what you desire and the guard/warden states the obvious in each room before moving to the next (e.g. "In this room is a chair and a table. They are both very old. There is also a rug and a picture."). No photos allowed (unless you pay for the right to take photos).
Polish language: some words are taken from Russian and some from German, but the language as a whole is very closely related to Ukrainian.
Polish Kefir tastes strongly like it is on the way to becoming cottage cheese, not like it is on the way to becoming yoghurt.

070718 Bieszczady, Poland
The untended, tumbled-down Jewish cemetery in Lesko was a stark reminder of the extinction of an entire people/culture. The grave stones dated back hundreds of years, but none were recent and there were trees growing up through the graves because the cemetery had not been used or visited for the last 60 years.

In Lesko, I had a flash-back to Perugia (Italy); the same feeling of being sweaty and climbing up to a tiny village square bordered by buildings old and new, some dilapidated, some in good condition. I had the odd thought that I can stop traveling now; It is one humanity and I have seen it.

I went for a night walk, from Wołosate (the 40-person town in which we have been staying). In this tiny town, some people go for evening walks, but all of them head towards the "town center" (the gas station/convenience store near the main road). I chose to walk into the dark, toward a hiking trail that leads to the Ukrainian border.

It took about 20 minutes walking, but then even the little light pollution from Wołosate faded away and the Milky Way stood out as a glittering ribbon of tiny specks rather than a milky haze. I heard more wildlife than I saw, but I saw one deer, one bat, and two border patrol officers...

Well, it was midnight, in the middle of nowhere, on a back country route toward the Ukrainian border. The officers just asked me to follow the right fork of the trail (i.e. to stay in Poland), rather than follow the left fork towards the Ukraine. When I knew to look for it, the occasional flicker of light in the mountains bordering the Ukraine seemed to hint at a border patrol operation ongoing that night.

070717 Bieszczady, Poland
Two things I did not expect about Poland: The large number of self-built cinder block homes (which are eventually finished out quite nicely) and the reckless speed with which Poles seem to drive. We averaged 1.5-2X the posted speed limit on the narrow back-country roads to and around the Bieszczady. Near the villages, the speed limit dropped quite low, but our speed remained unchanged, so we occasionally hit 4X the speed limit. Polish driving might make me religious.

Er, I should mention that Piotr's not a hiker and he and Weronika got engaged the day after I arrived, so not a lot of hiking is happening. Instead of getting going early enough to do the climbing before the main heat of the day, they are snuggling away the morning and eventually declaring themselves ready for the day at 11:30-ish. By that point, it's declared "too hot to hike" and they opt for romantic strolls in the picturesque little towns dotted around the Bieszczady area or laying about some of the beaches of the little lakes in this region...
I'm semi-solo, either riding along with them to visit historical sites in the small towns (separate from their strolls) or doing short loop hikes. Eh, at least I'm getting to tour a number of the towns around the region.

070716 Bieszczady, Poland
The temperature is a record-breaking heat wave, but we are hiking anyway. Today, we hiked up to the two highest points in the Carpathian mountain range and (briefly) across the back country border into Ukrania. The trails were well marked and well maintained, with dozens of tiny triangular shrines to Jesus, Mary, and various saints along the way. The views were some of the best I have seen outside of the Canadian Rockies. However, at these heights (we were above the tree-line), the sun was hammer-blow powerful and burned us solidly through the very weak sunscreen we'd brought (I couldn't find anything heavier than SPF5). Despite the heat, I wore my windbreaker to shield my arms from the sun, but there was little I could do for my knees or the back of my legs.

Poor Piotr (Weronika's boyfriend) is no hiker. He's in good shape, but didn't seem to get the point of the hike - I'd reach a peak and say "Wow, look at the views!" whereas he would reach the peak and say "Wow, look! (Holding up his cell phone) I have signal!" I lingered at the heights for the views and the wind moving across the ridge-line and he lingered at the heights so that he could call his friends and ask about movie tickets or soccer game results. Eh, different pleasures for different folks, I guess.

070715 Bieszczady, Poland
We briefly crossed the Slovakian border to buy cheap beer and Absinthe at a store just across the border. There was a large tourist bus full of Poles there - apparently it is relatively common for busloads of Poles to cross just long enough to stock up on cheap Slovakian liquor and then cross back into Poland. Absinthe is illegal in Poland, which is why the Slovakian liquor store at the border stocks a vast array of different Absinthes.

070714 Kraków, Poland
Poland seems even more Clergy-haunted than Italy; churches big and small are dotted everywhere, roving clusters of nuns and scattered priests & monks... I wonder if this is just Kraków or if it is like this throughout Poland. Tomorrow, we (Weronika, Piotr, and I) leave for Bieszczady National Park for a week of hiking.

070710 Davis, CA
Oof. I have been working far too much in a big push to get my project in shape and my intern trained up so that he can continue the basic steps of the project at work while I go on vacation. Long story short, that's why I have not updated in quite a few days. I've been doing things, just not a lot of things other than work.

On Tuesday, the 26th of last month, I went to a Harp concert that was held in a small art gallery here in Davis. It was a very intimate and informal performance by Aryeh Frankfurter (who occasionally plays at the Davis Farmer's Market) and Lisa Lynne (a performer who occasionally makes it on the New Age top 10 album list). Mixed in with the music were stories of life as a performer and what it takes to make it in to the top of the charts (Lisa Lynne called it "breaking the Yanni barrier"). During a break in the performance, the audience was invited to come up and give the harps a try. It was a really nice evening.

For July 4th, I had to go into work for a few hours to keep the cultures going, but I drove down to Oakland to visit with some friends from Utah, have since moved to Oregon, but who were visiting with their relatives in California for a few days. Anyway, it was nice to see them for the first time in something like four years.

Well, there is more to be said, but I still need to do laundry and pack before the evening is over; I leave for Poland tomorrow.

070620 Davis, CA
I think I'd mentioned a while ago that I thought the local public library is pretty darn pitiful... Well, this past weekend I did my part to help remedy that situation; I donated 112 books to the library including a selection of classic science fiction (Heinlein, Asimov, etc.), complete runs of fiction series (e.g. Ellis Peter's Brother Cadfael mysteries), and a double handful of recently published novels. I could have easily gotten good money for them (especially the newer novels) at the local used bookstore, but that wasn't the point.

I'd initially thought of having another big book give-away, like I did in late 2004 / early 2005, but I decided it really bugged me that the local library had such a pathetic, sparse selection of books. When I was growing up, I was a regular at my local library and I'm a believer in the utopian ideal underlying the idea of having a quality local library.

After several decades of being a pack-rat, I'm working on stripping down and trying to keep just what I need, instead of everything I have ever run across. I'm not very good at it though; at the same time I have donated over a hundred books to the local library, I have also gone on a shopping spree. You see, I'd decided to make sure all the music I listen to digitally is "legitimate", i.e. every mp3 is from a CD I have. A number of the mp3s I have are legitimate, but the source is a record or a tape, so in this shopping spree I've also been "upgrading" from older formats to CDs...

Whether or not this choice (buying albums which I already have as mp3s) is honorable (as I've been congratulated by some friends) or stupid (as I've been chided by other friends), one thing is certain: it is pack-rat-y and not in line with an attempt to strip down the clutter in life. Oh well.

070618 Davis, CA
Well, after keeping this blog relatively politics free for a number of weeks now, I have fallen off the wagon. So, let's take a poll: American Democracy - doing fine or under threat?

The authors of One Party Country have done a pretty good job of explaining why they believe that the balance of the "playing field" in the US has been deliberately and successfully tilted in favor of one party over the other and they do it without resorting to hackneyed old bull-pucky like blaming The Media. Apparently, they did a decent enough job to earn the following review:
"One Party Country does a good job of spelling out the GOP electoral strategy objectively and in detail, and without evidence of partisan leanings."
Christian Science Monitor, October 31, 2006

The picture painted is not one that makes the state of our Democracy look healthy. This is more than gerrymandering, more than the (illegal) hiring and firing of government attorneys based on party loyalty, more than creating a new layer of bureaucracy to reinterpret and rewrite policy and regulation for partisan ends (mentioned in my 010131 post), and more than a nationwide (illegal) targeted disenfranchisment of voters (a practice known as "vote caging").

One of the practices the book discusses is a campaign aimed at politicizing federal agencies. Quoting Ken Mehlman in 2005 (on p102 of One Party Country):
"One of the things that can happen in Washington when you work in an agency is that you forget who sent you there. And it’s important to remind people that you’re George Bush people.... If there’s one empire I want built, it’s the George Bush empire."

This is illegal. Ever since the Hatch Act passed in 1939, it has been illegal to conduct any form of partisan campaign or electoral activities on federal government property, including federal agencies. Illegal or not, this has been a strategy used over the last several years, leverageing federal power towards advantage for one party. The Bush administration has admitted some 20 federal agencies have received a PowerPoint briefing created by Karl Rove’s office outlining 2008 campaign strategy. Lurita Doan, the head of the General Services Administration agency has been called to question over her role in attempting to use the GSA to serve Republican Party ends, holding partisan meetings using the GOP 2008 campaign strategy presentation in GSA offices, on GSA time, and with GSA personel.

The authors of One Party Country don't offer any prescription for restoring balance to the playing field; they report what has, in their eyes, already been accomplished. The authors seem to predict that we have been set up for a situation where there are going to be a number of marginal victories by the GOP, as the last few adjustments are being made, followed by outright and inescapable dominance.

To me, it shouldn't matter whether you love or hate the GOP, if you believe in democracy, you should be against an entrenchment of any one side. If your side is really on the side of right, and you believe in democracy, then you, too, should be in favor of the neutrality of the federal government and in favor of enforcement of the Hatch Act.

For those of you who believe that wrong is being done by the current administration, but also believe that US democracy is quite healthy, I suppose you could point out the fire under Gonzales or the flap around Doan as signs that investigations are underway and the law will catch up to any lawbreakers... However, the fact that people are being called to question does nothing to make the situation any better; you have underlings pleading the Fifth Amendment before the first question is asked and bigger fish willing to appear borderline retarded, with Alberto Gonzales claiming to have no knowledge of any action taken by his department and to remember no meetings, and Lurita Doan babbling that all she can remember is that there were some cookies on the table. No one is being brought down, no one is admitting any wrongdoing, and these few minor flaps are no Watergate.

So, about that poll I started with, wanna change your vote?

070614 Davis, CA
A coworker pointed me to a bunch of science songs, written by a Prof at the University of Oregon - Metabolic Melodies... OK, I like geeky songs, like Jonathan Coulton's songs about robots and giant squid and such, but the Metabolic Melodies, for me at least, cross the line from geek to dork. Still, maybe you'll be amused.

The only other bit I have today is a plug: it is really easy to see, these days, how your Congressman/woman has been voting. The Senate Roll Call votes are all on-line. Of course, that doesn't tell the whole story, for example who really tried to back or oppose a bill versus who just sort of half-heartedly waved during the voting, but at least some aspects of government are becoming more transparent.

070610 Davis, CA
This weekend has been the same old pattern as many weekends; stay up too late Friday (typically reading news and politics on the web), sleep in Saturday and then do laundry and shopping, Sunday is half spent in the lab doing fermentation sampling. The same old rut is easy to fall into... So when I heard about a free concert I decided to leave the rut and go.

You see a big show that the local (Sacramento) alternative radio station, KWOD had put together fell through, due to low ticket sales, and so the promotor pulled out, but one of the headliners, Shiny Toy Guns, and the opening group, the Dead Celebrities, agreed to do a free show, if a venue could be found. Empire Events Center agreed to host the bands for free and thus lots of cool people got together and made some music happen even though the money had dropped out of the equation.

Anyway, I heard about the concert and, even though I'd only vaguely heard of Shiny Toy Guns, decided to go. If you want to check out the band, I recommend give a listen to "You Are The One"; it is one of their stronger songs. "Le Disko" has strong hooks too.

It was a fun concert. The wait to get in was pretty long and technical problems (some messed up equipment giving the need for repeated, extended sound checks) delayed things as well, but I thought Shiny Toy Guns gave a dang good show. They closed the set, got called out for an oncore, and finished the oncore song set with a really good version of Depeche Mode's "Stripped". It was an excellent cover, clearly being "Stripped" while being changed enough to put a strong Shiny Toy Guns stamp on the song, with different lines being sung by the male and female singers in a way that emphasized the lyrics nicely. I loved that song, although most of the crowd was left cold by it, apparently not recognizing Depeche Mode's stuff.

Anyway, it was nice to be able to hop out and hit a live show. The only thing that would have made it better is if Warp 11, a local punk rock Star Trek tribute band, had been opening.

070603 Davis, CA
It has been a while since the last entry. I've been kinda stressed out since then. The whole kitchen/plumbing nightmare took far more of my time than it should have. I won't go into the details of the various delays and disruptions, but the floor was finally torn up and replaced on Friday (1 June). Now, mild chemical fumes have replaced the smell of wet rot and the kitchen is again usable. Three weeks was a long time to be putting up with it. Anyway, now that I again have a functional kitchen and a non-smelly apartment, I'm much less stressed.

Other than the kitchen thing, I don't have much news. This weekend has been spent in fiddling with the computer and cleaning up the construction dust. On the plus side, I did the cleaning while listening to a set of Cello concertos (by J.S. Bach, played by M. Rostropovich). Somehow, the music made cleaning seem elegant.

To make up for the lack of news, have some haiku; these were written over the last three weekends.

Summer's buzzing flies
Blown about by Spring's cool breeze
Signal season's change

Sultry summer wind
Lifts beads of sweat from my skin.
Birds dance in blue skies.

These butterfly thoughts
Flit through my head, free, 'till I
Nail them to the page.

Page Last Modified: 2008 04 14, 16:50:50

 

 

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